Last Updated on December 15, 2021
This morning I had the honor to be among the first guests of the Sens(n)ation exhibition showcasing a historic overview of Maison Martin Margiela's first line (défilé) collection from 1989 to 2011 (23 looks), as well as garments and accessories by renowned Slovenian designers. The exhibition, a joint effort of multibrand designer store Wolfova 5 and Projekt27, is curated absolutely comme il faut; fashion-wise, this is the event that finally put Ljubljana on a global scale.
There's quite a Margiela cult in Slovenian fashion circles, making Sens(n)ation even more sens(n)ational. In a way – though if you asked people in the street who Margiela was, I don't think you'd get many sensible replies – this exhibition will cater to the widest of tastes. Fashion people will love it (or at least appreciate it as usually you'd have to go to another country to see an exhibition on this level), passers-by (i.e. the uninitiated into the Noble Art of Conceptual Fashion) will be provoked by what fashion can be – fashion that is not stripped to strict functionality, fashion beyond trends.
I should note that the historic overview is actually very general public-friendly. There are no covered faces and other more or less bizarre facets that often alienate people from the complex world of Margiela; it's more about playing with sizes, materials, inspirations and humor. When you see the exhibition, I suggest you pick up the little booklet with details about each look so you won't miss out on Margiela's clever tricks.
1. Polka dot print dress, S/S 2006
2. Setup
3. Shirt with front made out of leather gloves, S/S 2001
4. Theater costume-inspired jacket, S/S 1993
5. Sleeveless "tailor dummy" jacket, S/S 1997
6. Setup
7. Size 78 coat and jeans, F/W 2000
8. Pink shouldered jacket, "destroyed" jeans, S/S 2008
9. Velvet dress, mohair cardigan, F/W 1995
10. Double-breasted sleeveless jacket, S/S 2004
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Regarding the second part of the exhibition, I cannot help but wonder how (Slovenian) designers feel about their work being displayed in the same space as Margiela's; it's an enormous challenge, yet the selection is careful enough that the Slovenian designers' part feels like a logical continuation of the Margiela part. Each designer has contributed two looks, the dominant color being black. Three accessories collections have been designed especially for Sens(n)ation: bags-sculptures by Marjeta Grošelj, jewelry by Srečko Molk and glass hats by Ana Lazovski.
1. Dress by JSP Jelena and Svetlana Proković
2. Dresses by Sanija Reja
3. Bag by Marjeta Grošelj
4. Sweater and dress by Dajana Ljubičić
Most of the designers are part of the younger generation; I miss humor in their otherwise beautiful, well-constructed garments, the same humor Margiela has in his little finger. On the other hand, I understand that creative insouciance can only be achieved after you have fallen and risen again a thousand times. A quality of the masters.
The exhibition will be open from November 25 to December 4. Free admission.
Galerija Jakopič, Slovenska 9, Ljubljana.
Hvala za preview! :) V naslednjih dneh definitivno obiščem Jakopičevo.
Can't wait to see the exhibition tomorrow! I've seen the big/full one in London and it seriously blew me away. It was curated in such a perfect way, it was impossible to miss the genious behind the garments (oversized Barbie clothes! His way of doing couture!). I think I spent about 3 hrs in the Somerset House, walking around, admiring the clothes (and shoes!), reading about the inspiration/ideas behind them & watching the videos.
One of my favourite parts was when they filmed a woman and a man with an enviable Margiela wardrobe-collection (30+ pieces both) & they both showed and explained how they styled them. I've always felt that Margiela was somehow "too avantgarde" for me - but realized most of it is basics with an unusual twist, the middle finger (as you put it so well), that could be incorporated - albeit in small doses - in anyone's wardrobe.
Can't wait to see it! :)
I like the bust form dummy jacket. It's an interesting way that Margiela was set up--the emphasis of the lack of a logo and without showing an identity the head designer, that it can continue to exist even when he is no longer there.
fin prispevek
pričakovanje humorja...pri nas..si mi privabila namseh na lice...enkrat bo
Very beautiful models, congrat !
i always loved fashion and museums and if those two are in one my heart is sold, so i couldn't be more thrilled to see this pics here in your blog, i only wish i could visit this exhibition as well.
Večino umetniških razstav mi uspe obiskati, tale pa me je kljub reklami na velikih panojih pustila za seboj. Škoda, da si nisem ogledala dela M.M-a vendar nič za to, čas je dragocen...
Kasneje sem si ogledovala spletno stran P27 in bila tudi sama presenečena nad tem, da so v enem in istem prostoru razstavljali kolekcijo modnega velikana in razstavo treh (bi rekla, da smo dveh) slovenskih oblikovalcev. Sem bila kar šokirana nad tem. Mene osebno bi bilo iz spoštovanja do umetnika oblikovalca sram razstavljati v prostorsko ne prav razmejeni razstavi.
Druga misel, oz. vprašanje, ki se mi je utrnilo v glavi, pa je: Kaj imajo skupnega Marjet Grošelj, Al in Srečko Molk?
Marjeta Grošelj je legenda slovenske usnjene galanterije. Obvlada svoj posel in obrt. Najprej moraš brezhibno obvladati obrt, da se lahko posvetiš ustvarjanju! Tisti, ki ne razumejo tega stavka, jim ni čisto jasno za kaj gre.
Srečko Molk se je proslavil z natečajem revije Ona, za katerega je izdelal prekrasno zapestnico iz korenine, to pa je bil očitno njegov presežek. Kajti po tem, na žalost nisem videla nič kar že sicer ne bi.
O Al res nimam besed, razen to, da me te njeni klobučki malo preveč spominjajo na Philip Tracy-a. To, da se v slovenskem prostoru kopira, to je že stalnica in to zelo žalostna stalnica.
Pred dnevi sem v medijih zasledila tale stavek, ki mi je ostal v spominu "Medijska realnost je postala maškerada negotovih posameznikov, ki se skrivajo za svojimi javnimi obrazi in za vsako ceno branijo svoje identitete – skrivajo svoj sram."
In Eva, za humor je potrebna inteligenca ;)
Ostani takšna, kot si!!!